Book Sleeve Sewing Guide

Snap Closure & Zipper Closure Versions

Sizing for Any Book

Formula (per piece — cut 2 exterior + 2 lining):

•      Width = book width + spine thickness + 1.5 in (ease + seam allowance)

•      Height = book height + 1 in (seam allowance)

Round up to the nearest half inch.

Worked example — trade paperback (5.5 × 8.5 × 1 in):

•      Main panels: 8 × 9.5 in

•      Strap (snap version): 2 × 7 in, cut 2

•      Zipper (zipper version): at least 9 in long

Tip:

1.5 in ease works for slim paperbacks. For chunky books with 1.5+ in spines, bump ease to 1.75–2 in or the sleeve will be tight once the lining and fleece eat the interior volume.

Cut List

Measurements shown use the trade paperback example. Substitute your own numbers from the formula above.

For Both Versions

•      2 exterior panels — 8 × 9.5 in

•      2 lining panels — 8 × 9.5 in

•      Optional: 2 fusible fleece pieces — 8 × 9.5 in (fuse to exterior panels before construction)

•      Thread to match

Snap Version — Additional

•      2 strap pieces — 2 × 7 in

•      1 snap set (1 male side, 1 female side) — KAM plastic or metal pearl snaps

•      Optional: 1 piece of medium fusible interfacing for strap — 1.5 × 6.5 in

Zipper Version — Additional

•      1 zipper, at least 9 in long (longer is fine, you'll trim)

•      Optional: 2 small fabric rectangles for zipper end tabs — 2 × 2 in

Version 1: Snap Closure

Before you start:

This version uses a strap that comes out of the top back, wraps over the top of the closed book, and snaps to the front.

Step 1: Make the Strap

1.     Place the two strap pieces right sides together (pretty sides facing each other).

2.     Sew along both long edges (7 in) and one short end (2 in). Leave the other short end (2 in) open. Use ¼ in seam allowance.

3.     Clip the two sewn corners diagonally (don't cut through the stitches). This helps corners turn out sharp.

4.     Turn the strap right side out through the open short end (2 in). A chopstick or knitting needle helps push the corners.

5.     Press flat with an iron.

6.     Topstitch ⅛ in from the edge around the three finished sides.

Step 2: Add the Male Snap to the Front Exterior

1.     Pick one exterior panel — this is your front.

2.     Mark a spot 2.5 in down from the top short edge (8 in), centered side-to-side.

3.     Install the male half of the snap here, following your snap package's instructions.

Do this now — it's much harder once the sleeve is assembled.

Step 3: Attach the Strap to the Back Exterior

1.     The other exterior panel is your back.

2.     Find the center of the top short edge (8 in).

3.     Place the strap's raw (open) short end (2 in) on the back panel, right sides together, with the strap pointing down into the panel (it will flip up later).

4.     Line up the strap's raw short end (2 in) with the top short raw edge (8 in) of the panel.

5.     Sew across with a scant ¼ in to hold it in place (this is called "basting").

Step 4: Sew Exterior to Lining at the Top

You'll do this twice — once for the front, once for the back.

Front:

1.     Place front exterior and one lining panel right sides together, top short edges (8 in) aligned.

2.     Sew across the top short edge (8 in) only, ½ in seam allowance.

3.     Press the seam open, then press both pieces away from each other so they lie flat in one long strip.

Back (with strap):

1.     Place back exterior and the other lining panel right sides together, top short edges (8 in) aligned. The strap is sandwiched in between.

2.     Sew across the top short edge (8 in), ½ in seam allowance.

3.     Press the same way.

You now have two long strips: exterior on one half, lining on the other.

Step 5: Stack the Two Strips Together

1.     Lay one strip flat, right side up.

2.     Lay the second strip on top, right side down.

3.     Match up: exterior to exterior, lining to lining, and the top seams meeting in the middle.

4.     Pin all the way around the outside edge.

Step 6: Sew Around the Perimeter

1.     Starting on the bottom short edge of the lining (8 in), sew around the entire outside.

2.     Use ½ in seam allowance on the exterior. When you reach the lining, switch to ⅝ in (this makes the lining slightly smaller so it tucks in neatly).

3.     Leave a 3–4 in gap in the bottom short edge of the lining (8 in). Don't sew across this — you'll need it to turn everything right side out.

4.     When you cross the top seams at the two side long edges (9.5 in), sew slowly and keep them aligned.

Step 7: Clip and Turn

1.     Clip the four corners diagonally, close to the stitching but not through it.

2.     Reach into the gap in the lining and pull the whole thing right side out.

3.     Use a chopstick to push out the corners.

Step 8: Close the Gap

1.     Fold the raw edges of the gap inward ¼ in.

2.     Press flat.

3.     Sew the gap closed with a line of stitching very close to the edge.

Step 9: Tuck and Topstitch

1.     Push the lining down inside the exterior. The sleeve should now look finished.

2.     Press the top edge crisply with your iron, rolling the seam slightly toward the lining so it doesn't show from the outside.

3.     Topstitch ⅛ in from the top edge, all the way around.

Step 10: Add the Female Snap

1.     Close the sleeve around your book.

2.     Wrap the strap over the top and across the front.

3.     Mark where the strap meets the male snap.

4.     Install the female half of the snap on the strap at that mark.

Heads-up:

Don't install the female snap before Step 10. If you guess the placement, it'll almost always be off — measure with the actual book closed inside.

Version 2: Zipper Closure

Before you start:

This version uses a zipper across the top opening that closes the sleeve completely.

Step 1 (Optional): Add Zipper Tabs

Skip this step if you bought a zipper exactly 8 in long with finished ends.

1.     Take your two small rectangles (2 × 2 in). Fold each one in half so the short edges (2 in) meet. Press.

2.     Open the fold and tuck the raw short edges (2 in) inward to meet the center crease. Press again. You now have two little fabric "sandwiches."

3.     Slip one tab over each end of the zipper tape, hiding the raw zipper ends inside.

4.     Sew across each tab close to the zipper teeth to hold it in place.

5.     Trim the zipper + tabs so the total length is 8 in (matches your panel's top short edge).

Step 2: Sew the Zipper to the Front Exterior and Front Lining

1.     Lay your front exterior panel flat, right side up. Place the zipper face-down along the top short edge (8 in), with the zipper teeth pointing inward (away from the raw edge). Line up the raw edges.

2.     Lay the front lining panel on top, right side down. The zipper is now sandwiched between the two panels, all top short edges (8 in) aligned.

3.     Pin all three layers along that top short edge (8 in).

4.     Using a zipper foot, sew along the top short edge (8 in) with ¼ in seam allowance.

5.     Open the two panels away from the zipper (like opening a book). Press flat — the zipper is now sticking out one side, with exterior on one face and lining on the other.

6.     Topstitch ⅛ in from the folded edge along the exterior side, close to the zipper teeth. This keeps the lining from getting caught in the zipper later.

Step 3: Sew the Zipper to the Back Exterior and Back Lining

Repeat Step 2 with the other side of the zipper:

1.     Lay your back exterior panel flat, right side up.

2.     Place the free side of the zipper face-down along the top short edge (8 in), teeth pointing inward.

3.     Lay the back lining panel on top, right side down.

4.     Pin, sew with a zipper foot, ¼ in seam allowance.

5.     Open the panels away from the zipper, press, and topstitch ⅛ in along the exterior side.

You now have one piece that looks like a long strip: exterior–zipper–exterior on one face, lining–zipper–lining on the other face.

Step 4: UNZIP THE ZIPPER HALFWAY

This step is the most important one. Do not skip it.

Open the zipper about halfway. If you forget, you'll sew the sleeve shut with no way to turn it right side out.

Step 5: Stack the Panels for the Final Seam

1.     Fold the piece so the two exterior panels are right sides together (pretty sides facing each other).

2.     The two lining panels should also be right sides together on the other side.

3.     The zipper sits in the middle, with both halves of the zipper tape folded toward the lining side.

4.     Match up all the raw edges. Pin all the way around the three open sides (the two long edges, 9.5 in, and the bottom short edge, 8 in, on both the exterior and lining halves).

Step 6: Sew Around the Perimeter

1.     Starting on the bottom short edge of the lining (8 in), sew around the entire outside.

2.     Use ½ in seam allowance on the exterior. When you reach the lining, switch to ⅝ in (this makes the lining slightly smaller so it tucks in neatly).

3.     Leave a 3–4 in gap in the bottom short edge of the lining (8 in). You'll need this to turn everything right side out.

4.     When you cross the zipper at the two top corners, sew slowly. Push the zipper teeth toward the lining side so you don't break a needle.

Step 7: Clip and Turn

1.     Clip the four corners diagonally, close to the stitching but not through it.

2.     Trim the zipper tape ends down at an angle if they're bulky.

3.     Reach into the gap in the lining and pull everything right side out through the half-open zipper and the lining gap.

4.     Use a chopstick to push out the corners.

Step 8: Close the Gap

1.     Fold the raw edges of the gap inward ¼ in.

2.     Press flat.

3.     Sew the gap closed with a line of stitching very close to the edge.

Step 9: Tuck and Finish

1.     Push the lining down inside the exterior. The sleeve should look finished.

2.     Press the top edge along the zipper crisply.

3.     Zip and unzip a few times to make sure nothing catches.

Two heads-ups:

•      A zipper that's slightly too long is much easier to work with than one that's slightly too short. Buy a 9 in zipper and trim, or use a continuous zipper-by-the-yard.

•      If you've never installed a zipper before, sew a practice one on scrap fabric first. The zipper foot feels weird because you can only sew on one side of the foot at a time.

Downloadable version: 

https://slavenstudios.com/products/downloadable-book-sleeve-instructions